Eat, drink, volunteer, repeat – in Israel

More than ever before, Israel is my favourite holiday destination. Since October 7, my trips there have had an extra dimension – volunteering. Through the Sword of Iron Facebook group, one is able to pick up roles helping out in places such as farms, hospitals and army bases.

On my latest visit I managed to incorporate volunteering activities into my usual socialising, walking along the beach-ing and eating – and what fun it was. I picked lemons on moshav Nir Akiva, served food at Boystown Jerusalem school and donated blood.

Everywhere you volunteer has an Israeli flavour and warmth – the table of pastries at the hotel where I gave my blood was a sugary feast (medicinal, of course). Anything you can do to help out when you are in Israel is meaningful and incredibly well received and the Israelis appreciate the solidarity.

I love Tel Aviv and was very happy at the newly-opened Gymnasia Isrotel – a sophisticated alternative to the seafront hotels. It is situated in the heart of the city, the beach only a ten minute walk away, with food and craft markets, restaurants and bars nearby. There is even a 24-hour supermarket on the doorstep. The vibe is upbeat and boutiquey, aimed at couples and business travellers who want somewhere practical and fun at the same time.

The rooms are compact and modern with a high ceiling to give a more spacious feel. Everywhere was immaculate and the newness of the furnishings and linen a real treat.

I am more proficient at eating than swimming, but I loved the rooftop infinity pool where I had a dip while looking out over the city. There is a bar and loud music playing, so more suited to partying than quietly reading a book.

Florentina is a friendly and buzzy neighbourhood kosher Italian restaurant in the heart of Tel Aviv’s hipster Florentin. The menu is full of homemade dairy dishes – pasta, pizza, fish, salads – and everything we ate was delicious. The house bread with pepper paste, tahina and pesto got gobbled up with our amazing cocktails and we annihilated the inspired halloumi, mushroom and onion in wine and plum sauce served on sweet potato puree. For mains we shared pizza and pasta and even found space for an outstanding baked cheesecake with crumble and ice cream (no calories if you share). The staff were delightful and everyone around us was having a ball.

Housed in Tel Aviv’s first hotel, Elkonin, Rova Aleph is a treat for a very special occasion. The food and setting is exquisite, but as is so often the case in Israel, the atmosphere is relaxed and unstuffy. The menu is kosher fish and dairy, the dishes as innovative as they are tasty, fish being the star attraction.

We tucked into the incredibly soft brioche challah while sipping on our classic cocktails (there were signature ones too, but we were so engrossed with the food that we didn’t spend too long on what to drink). Then came dish after dish of exciting concoctions, devised by chef Evyatar Malka – white fish sashimi in bitter almond milk, trout merguez and marine hamusta (chopped sea bream, pistachios and parsley on thin kubbeh dough).

My husband chose almond cake for dessert and I joked with the waitress that it would probably taste of Pesach. It didn’t. I opted for black pepper ice cream which was a not unpleasant experience.

We were lucky enough to be given a tour around the old and new part of this luxurious hotel and this topped off a very special evening.

Sabich Tchernichovsky is my favourite street food dish in Tel Aviv. A beautifully crafted pitta stuffed with fried aubergine, hard boiled egg, potatoes, salads and a variety of dressings. Each serving is a work of art with a multi-layered taste to match.

Tel Aviv boasts scores of ‘hole in the wall’ eateries serving authentic and no nonsense food. I took myself for a kosher Persian lunch at Shamshiri in Florentin, which sadly does not open in the evening. A difficult decision as I wanted everything, I went for a ghormeh sabzi, a rich, meaty stew which came with tahdig crispy rice. It was outstanding and I will be back to ‘research’ this place on my next visit.

For the last four days we hired a car and drove up north, where the pace was much more chilled, staying at Naomi’s in Rosh Pinah – a small town in the north of Israel perfectly situated for visits to the Kinneret, Acco and Tzfat.

Naomi and her husband Ronen have built the most wonderful zimmer (villa) which is suitable for families, friends or couples. My favourite space was the outside decking and pool, but my shade loving husband spent his time relaxing indoors in the large air conditioned lounge.

The host family live above the zimmer, but you wouldn’t know it as Naomi doesn’t let anyone onto their balcony when guests are in situ. However, if you do want some English/Israeli company, invite Naomi down for a coffee and you will end up best friends.

One of my favourite restaurants in Israel (and I have tried a few) is Shipudi Rachamim, a traditional eatery whereupon ordering two skewers of meat you will be served 17 salads and laffa bread. Even we couldn’t finish this little lot.