TRAVEL: Sails of the unexpected!

As the young girl was putting pen to paper in the Secret Annex knowing that at any moment the Nazis could storm in, events literally down the road were proving to be even more dramatic.

The whole world knows about the tragic tale of Anne Frank and her account of those two years in hiding after which only one of eight survived. But there were no such diaries made at nearby De Silveren Spiegel – a popular drinking place among German soldiers oblivious to the fact that, at one point, SIXTEEN Jews were in hiding just above them.

My partner, Ilisa, and I both listened open-mouthed to our guide as we stood outside the scene of this remarkable act of concealment. The venue is still operating today – a fine-dining restaurant in the heart of delightful Amsterdam – but the courageous and astonishing story of Wies Hoffmann, who ran it as a cafe during World World Two, remains largely untold.

Wies drank too much, our guide Peter explained, as she shuffled between keeping Gestapo sweet and ensuring the Jews upstairs remained there. With that kind of pressure, who could blame her for hitting the bottle? Tragically, the alcohol caused her death not long after the war but, incredibly, all 16 Jews were never discovered despite no fewer than six raids on the building.

Their survival left our hearts massively warmed and put us in the perfect mood for what was to come.

We had arrived in the Dutch capital ahead of a seven-night river cruise on the Rhine and Moselle and later that afternoon boarded AmaCerto, one of 28 luxury ships operated by AmaWaterways – family-owned and continuing to flourish after nearly a quarter of a century.

This was my fifth river cruise and I have sailed at sea more than 30 times. So I have a fair bit to compare to. I often chat to people who have travelled on the big ships, fancy trying a river cruise, but have remained in their comfort zone. They know what they are getting with an ocean cruise… but on the river?

Well, if you enjoyed listening to those fairy-tales where a castle often figured amid some magical village or town, then this should be the trip for you… and the only ‘evil’ thing you will face is that moment when it is time to head home! AmaWaterways delivered the magic for us and, on our chosen rivers, we were treated to plenty of castles, vineyards and generally wonderful settings galore.

It is one adventure after another, combined with plenty of relaxation, as one minute you can be sitting on deck enjoying the views, the next be in the heart of the action on a slick guided tour.

From the Netherlands, we sailed into stunning parts of Germany before finishing off in charming Luxembourg. Many people have never been to the likes of picturesque Rudesheim and Bernkastel. I am afraid they are missing out. And in Mainz, I got a real insight into Johannes Gutenberg, who changed the world when he invented the movable-type printing press.

The 162-passenger AmaCerto made its debut back in 2012 but is in immaculate nick. There are four decks and it includes a heated outdoor pool and an elevator. If not on board, you are either setting off on an exciting morning or afternoon tour, which cater for all levels of fitness, or perhaps getting on your bike for an unescorted trip around town.

The timings of our tours meant we were always back ‘home’ for an excellent waiter-service lunch, although dinner was the real highlight whether in the main restaurant or enjoying The Chef’s Table Restaurant for a more specialised, intimate affair.

I have to say that the level of service and food with AmaWaterways was up there with the best I have experienced. I had made them aware that Ilisa keeps kosher and, although there is not the capacity for separate kitchens, exceptional maitre d’ Bogdan ensured her dietary requirements were fulfilled. There were delicious fish dishes and vegetarian options for her, some wonderful meat for me… plus tantalising desserts (not shared).

But as splendid as the food and entertainment were, it is the scenery and stops that really blow your mind.

And with food being a big part of any holiday we choose, the meals here were consistently hot and very tasty. We also enjoyed the waiter service at all sittings – buffets are not for us. Very drinkable wines and beers are included during lunch and dinner.

Somewhat like those medieval castles, my weight took a bit of a battering. No such issue for Ilisa… she made use of the small, but well-equipped gym.

If you are wondering about the entertainment, you won’t be getting the big West End-style productions that those enormous vessels provide, but you are unlikely to be disappointed.

One evening they brought on board a terrific trio of musicians and, for us, that was even surpassed by a Neil Diamond tribute act. If you closed your eyes you could have believed the great man was a few feet away and it was further encouragement to say ‘hello again’ to a future booking.

But as splendid as the food and entertainment were, it is the scenery and stops that really blow your mind.

In the German town of Rudesheim, we chose to go on a romantic gondola ride above the vineyards. As Ilisa and I glided along, it reminded me of a scene from an Elvis film, G.I. Blues, when ‘The King’ sang Pocketful Of Rainbows to Juliet Prowse. In the movie, Juliet joined in. On our tour, Ilisa appeared all shook up and, alas, wanted me returned to sender! At the top of the valley, our tour guide told us that the 1960 scene was actually filmed where we were – and so it had been now or never for me to try to impress.

Many people have never been to the likes of picturesque Rudesheim and Bernkastel. I am afraid they are missing out

My singing probably meant Ilisa deserved a very stiff drink but we settled for the famous Rüdesheimer Kaffee in a charming cafe later on that day. Just watching them prepare it was worth the money and the result was fantastic as we sipped the Asbach brandy mixed with sugar cubes, coffee, whipped cream and chocolate shavings.

While the Rhine Valley is glorious, the Moselle region is at least as spectacular with its share of quaint villages, wineries and, of course, plenty of castle remains. We thoroughly enjoyed Bernkastel, where a drop of the ‘Doctor’ Riesling wine was a great start to our tour. In the 1400s, their Archbishop was ill and none of his physicians could find a cure. In stepped a knight carrying the local vino and the Archbishop stopped whining in no time.

To be honest, by this stage of the trip, we were fairly wined-out so our tonic came from the town’s major attraction – the medieval market place surrounded by well preserved gabled timber-frame houses from the 17th century. You will be taking no end of snaps.

Back on board it was time to show our gratitude to the outstanding staff at the captain’s farewell event. In many ways this voyage was actually more fun than an ocean cruise. And, wow, what a special part of the world.

Castles in the air? Nope, this was a dream come true.

AmaWaterways offer the ‘Vineyards of the Rhine and Moselle’ cruise from Amsterdam to Luxembourg on a selection of dates in 2024 and 2025.
Seven nights departing on AmaPrima on 30 October 2024 costs from £2,925 pp in a category E stateroom based on two people sharing. This departure is currently on sale and the price includes £750pp savings.

Prices include return economy flights from London/Manchester and group overseas transfers. The cruise includes all meals, drinks with lunch and dinner plus daily sip and sail cocktails, along with a range of daily small group excursions.

To reserve an AmaWaterways river cruise, contact your preferred travel agent, call 0800 520 2250 or visit AmaWaterways.co.uk