‘Dam’ good time on the Aegean sea
A well-established cruise line leads the way in passenger care and you can even eat kosher
I don’t necessarily mind being outdone by someone, but this was a slap in the face…
The spa therapist had given me the mother (make that father) of all facials as we sailed the calm waters around some charming Greek islands. A friend on board told me I looked 10 years younger – and that was before he hit the red wine. Yet, next morning, during a presentation on the incredible history of Holland America cruise line, ahead of its 150th anniversary next year, we learned about a passenger who years ago had purchased an additional cabin… for her plastic surgeon! As the story goes, she booked a voyage lasting three months and finished up looking 20 years younger.
I was on board Holland America’s Oosterdam ship for just a week, but forget how I looked afterwards… I came away feeling bloomin’ marvellous. I travelled with my youngest daughter, Jessica, for some quality time together.
I am a veteran cruiser, but Holland America knocks me out the ballpark with its experiences at sea. It started out as a shipping and passenger line and was responsible for transporting hundreds of thousands of emigrants from the Netherlands to the ‘land of opportunity’. ‘Tarzan’ Johnny Weissmuller was among those to arrive in the United States as a boy.
There was no monkey business in recent times, as this company slowly and superbly navigated its way through choppy waters caused by the pandemic. It has been second-to-none for passenger wellbeing – guests have to prove they are Covid-clear before checking in, while cleanliness and safety measures are first class. In fact, we bypassed one stop as the captain deemed it too windy to board the tenders to get ashore. No one could argue with that and the alternative was none too shabby – a relaxing day at sea and, as is the way on board, yet more food.
This famous old cruise line led the way for passenger care a century ago, too. Those travelling sometimes had to wait at the port for weeks before heading off to start a new life and owners of boarding houses would take liberties with their prices. Holland America saw what was going on and built its own comfortable ‘hotel’ at low prices, including a kosher kitchen.
For the voyage itself, Holland America was the first to introduce three square meals a day. This meant guests would arrive at Ellis Island in shipshape condition and nearly all passed tricky immigration health checks. Today, the grub is endless and you can have three meals before breakfast! One can expect to put on half a stone after the average cruise and I kept up with tradition (though there is an excellent gym on board… so they tell me).
The highlight, without doubt, is dining at the specialty restaurants; the extra cost is worth every penny. Celebrity international chefs have created memorable dining experiences as we discovered at the mouthwatering Pinnacle steakhouse and then the Italian restaurant Canaletto, which boasts a large selection of delicious dishes, many for sharing.
On more than one occasion Holland America has had an entire ship chartered by Jewish groups, which is no mean feat considering passenger capacities range from about 1,400 to more than 2,600 guests. But if you want to dine kosher you don’t need to join a charter – you just need to give about six weeks’ notice.
The Oosterdam is part of a fleet boasting 11 ships, with the latest, the Rotterdam christened in May 2022. All the names end in ‘dam’ and you are more than likely to have a damn good experience. Jessica and I were especially impressed by the staff and their willingness to go overboard (happily, not literally). In our spacious cabin wardrobe there was even a basket to leave out your shoes and they would be returned beautifully polished at no extra charge. Passengers who appreciate artwork can enjoy the best there is at sea with a fantastic array of paintings, sculptures, vases and ornaments as they stroll between decks.
We set sail from Piraeus, near Athens, and our first port of call was the enchanting city of Istanbul. Although the best sight, the Blue Mosque, is currently undergoing a major renovation and was hidden behind scaffolding, the nearby Hagia Sophia is there in all its glory and this former cathedral-turned-mosque is a must-see.
With 3,000 mosques in the capital, I was surprised to learn there is still a healthy Jewish community, with about 17,000 people and plenty of shuls to cater for them. We took a short taxi ride from the historic Galata Tower – where the ship docks – to the beautiful Ahrida Synagogue, which dates back to the 1430s and is one of the oldest synagogues in the city. It is located in Balat, once a thriving Jewish quarter.
The great thing about cruising is that after some memorable sightseeing, it is always a pleasure to return to the ship, especially one as good as the Oosterdam. So, it was back on our sun loungers with the only decision to make being what time to return to the buffet. There is something special about looking out to sea and I was more than happy with my choice of music from my headphones as we drifted between islands. Yep, a bit of Rod Stewart… after all, we were sailing…
A seven-day Aegean Sunsets cruise departing 30 June 2023 on the Oosterdam starts at £1209pp including speciality dining, drinks, wifi and $100 shore credit. hollandamerica.com
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