In Perast you can stay in a palace, relax like royalty and sleep like a baby
Once you locate Montenegro, head to Perast for a royal experience by the Adriatic
As child, I was always swept up by that moment in Chitty Chatty Bang Bang when the car flew. Up it went over the cake-like castle of Baron Bomburst and the sea so blue – I vowed to visit such a place when I grew up. And I did when I arrived in Perast in Montenegro 40 years later.
Geography has never been my strongest suit and I still rely on the mnemonic ‘never eat shredded wheat’ to remember compass points. This might explain, though doesn’t justify, why I didn’t know where Montenegro was when a dear friend suggested it for a holiday.
On name alone, it sounds like a Caribbean Island – think Martinique, Mustique, Antigua – though it turns out that Montenegro is much closer to home – a little gem nestled in the Balkans connected by road to Croatia, Bosnia, Herzegovina, Serbia, Kosovo and Albania. But it feels like an island because of the narrow coastline surrounded by rugged mountains in a dramatic fashion- and then you get to Perast.
Picture-box perfect Perast is in the twinkling Bay of Kotor. Someone had the good sense to recognise the town as a UNESCO World Heritage site because of its’ ‘outstanding universal value’ which is undeniable as it is full of medieval architecture set beside the sea. It actually looks like a film set only it’s real and the jewel in the crown is the 18th-century Heritage Grand Perast by Rixos.
Once upon a time, the Heritage Grand Perast by Rixos really was a palace and this is reflected in the size and Baroque furnishings of our family suite. The large windows in our room are replicated everywhere so guests are permanently gasping at views of the bay and at the island, Our Lady of the Rocks, which can be reached by boat and I suggest the speed boat that you can order at the hotel reception. Honestly I’ve never felt cooler or more royal.
With so much light streaming in the windows (there are blinds of course) one tends to rise early, but that does mean one gets the best table (they’re all good) at the Riva seafront restaurant. The magnificent vista goes well with eggs sunny side up, artisan bread and the best iced coffee. It’s one of those moments on a holiday when you know you chose well – and there were lots .
By the pool which rests on a pontoon in the Adriatic, so it feels like swimming in the sea; eating again at the Riva but this time for a delicious dinner (delicious) and then there was that moment when we were the envy of tourists just in for the day as they witnessed the attentive staff falling over themselves to be of assistance.
The hotel has as many corridors as it does windows but with help from the staff I found a route to the tranquil indoor pool and spa. Beauty treatments are always part of my holiday plan, but I got distracted by the cobbled back streets of Perast, the many window views or simply sitting in the courtyard of the Heritage Grand sipping cocktails. After a day spent feeling like a princess, at night the town is so quiet you sleep like a baby and dream about that flying car.
A seven-night stay starts from £2,100 for two with breakfast included.
Make it a weekend
If you are one of those people who hates the idea of summer hols being your last vacation of the year – join the club. I am always looking for somewhere to go for an extra week or weekend – and there is no where more exceptional or affordable than Montenegro. And you can start that trip in Tivat with a stay at the uber fashionable La Fleur Boutique Hotel.
Anyone in Montenegro for business will appreciate the efficiency of this smartly furnished boutique townhouse with spacious suites, indoor pool and one of the most covetable hall carpets I’ve ever seen. I even took a photo of it. The hotel’s restaurant is known for its ‘gastronomic journey’ menu, but I can only vouch for the tasty breakfast.
The hotel is minutes away from Porto Montenegro marina. Shiny and new luxury yachts moor up for the people on board who like to pick up a little something from Gucci, Dior, Prada, Chanel or Rolex as the stretch of shops in the port rivals Bond Street or Rodeo Drive .
For a weekend of upscale shopping and café life by the sea, Porto Montenegro does it well and La Fleur is the place to stay before you explore this Balkan gem. lafleurhotel.com
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