Middle East Mayfair

It’s 20 years since Ottolenghi opened a Middle Eastern restaurant in London and from Honey & Co to the Palomar, from Bubala to Delamina there’s now a multitude of them.

I love them all, but Middle Eastern restaurants in London are all very similar. Not any more. Jeru has taken things up a notch. Jeru is to Coal Office what Benares is to Bhageecha. What Roka is to Oka. It’s fine dining Middle Eastern food in Mayfair. And it’s absolutely incredible.

Israeli-born chef Roy Ner has spent the last 18 years in Sydney being awarded Michelin stars for his innovative, energetic, inspired cooking.

Five months ago, he was approached to bring his brilliance to London. I took my daughter on this outing. It’s Mayfair – dress up, I said.

It’s Aussie/Israeli, Mum – keep it casual, she said. She was right. Despite a (clearly) megabucks stunning fit out, the vibe is informal and jeans will do, although I imagine it switches up a gear at weekends when there is music and a nightclub vibe on the ground floor.

Journalists are given a chef’s selection menu so we get to try a little of everything. In all my years of reviewing restaurants that hasn’t happened before. It’s genius.

As is the composition of this menu.

Soft and creamy fried halloumi ring doughnuts – just think about that. Potato fermented wood fired bread with sweet truffle honey and lamb pancetta (Roy does not use pork in his restaurants) – like the most magnificent pizza you ever tried. Hassleback Jerusalem artichokes (if you’ve ever cooked with them you’ll know what a labour of love that is).

Jeru has a fridge for dry ageing fish… another for doing so with meat encased in chocolate to keep it moist. Which is why the kingfish with tahini, chickpea and bisque was so full of flavour, and the short rib with Muhammara salsa so incredibly tender.

There was cured yellowtail with date and persimmon and bone marrow with mustard chickpea miso – oh my what a flavour hit. (It’s basically beef fat mum, said my daughter. Exactly, I said, spooning it in!) Baby gem lavishly topped with Parmesan and indulgent crispy potato gratin Egg plant and chocolate work magnificently in a brownie-like cake topped with baba ganoush ice-cream; I loved the non-sweetness of this.

The goat’s cheese ‘stone sculpture’ ice-cream with a sharp hit of mango was a perfect slate cleaner for this feast. We drank pomegranate and rose cocktails, Sicilian white wine from Etna, and people watched the team of chefs – the kitchen stretches right along the restaurant.

The day after our visit the bakery at the front of the restaurant opened – follow Jeru on Instagram to see the incredible things being produced there. Jeru means old city and it’s a joy to have it in our old city. It’s refreshing to have something relaxed and informal just off Berkeley Square. And it’s a privilege to have Roy Ner cooking in London. I’m quite sure a Michelin star will be shooting over here for him soon.

• Price – it’s not cheap, but then really good food isn’t. I’d say it’s not crazy for Mayfair in 2022. But expect close on three figures a head.
• jeru.co.uk