New year, new food, new places to try
As the season changes so will our palate, and there’s much to tuck in to
From New York-style bagels in Hampstead to smoky short ribs, Middle Eastern feasts, Italian terraces and one very special Winnie the Pooh afternoon tea there’s plenty to get your teeth into this season.
There’s something for every appetite, whether you’re craving a seriously good sandwich, looking for somewhere stylish for lunch, planning a special afternoon tea or in need of a meat feast. Meanwhile kosher restaurants, supper clubs and events continue to shake things up.
From Hampstead and St John’s Wood to Camden and Brent Cross, here’s our round-up of the places, dishes and foodie experiences that should be on your radar this season.
Bagel bonanza
Tucked just behind Haverstock Hill on an unassuming road leading to the back of the Royal Free you’ll find Brad and Dills, a haven for bagel and coffee lovers, bringing a little slice of New York to Hampstead with a carefully curated selection of brunch dishes and bakes from the iconic St John. Expect bagels with a chewy interior, crisp exterior and well-thought-out fillings. Standouts include the Vegano Picante with hash browns, vegan ’nduja, mozzarella and crispy onions, and the Lebanesey, a clever take on a falafel pita, or keep it simple with a classic Cream Cheese. It’s spacious inside, with a terrace for al fresco dining and staff who go above and beyond. Amber Royston
Garden of England
You may think of it as purely a Middle Eastern fest but several times a year Claro chooses a region to explore and brings the produce of its growers, farmers and artisan producers to the table. When I had lunch there recently (pre-theatre, Maureen Lipman in Allegra, since you ask), the bounty of Kent was in full harvest across tuna tataki with corn gazpacho, a tomato, cherry and lavender salad, a baked peach with cheese, celery and honey, and lamb kebab with apricots. A very special treat indeed.
Challah Queen
The inimitable Tami Pearce, aka Challah Queen of Hampstead, has opened a glorious new Karma Bread bakehouse in the up-and-coming Brent Cross Town. Shiny cabinets displaying her stunning wares and a large seating area in the window will be sure to render this an exciting new destination for breakfast, lunch and treats to take home!
Wine and dine
Honey & Co Great Portland (where Honey & Smoke once stood) is a new restaurant where the thinking is different – the wine list came first and the food was shaped around it. A deli by day, a dining room and wine bar by night, it’s warm, intimate, rustic and “designed around the way London wants to eat now” according to founders Itamar and Sarit. The focal-point wine list certainly throws up some seriously interesting options, including Txakoli Rosado – a beautiful pink version of my favourite slightly fizzy wine and a very unusual Lebanese Chateau Musar. The menu screams “eat me, try me” and as always with Honey & Co it’s hard to narrow it down – we tried a velvety smoked haddock beignet with basil and caper sauce, a punchy harissa and ricotta bun, goats cheese and peach skewer with salted almonds, rack of lamb with fermented green chilli and smoked duck with cherry relish. Did we finish with the Dubai chocolate mousse? You can bet your life we did!
Make mine meaty
After a summer of sunshine and salads, carnivores’ paradise Habiba’s Smokehouse (kosher) will beckon us in this autumn with a menu designed for meat heads. Start with nachos topped with slow-cooked pulled beef, or glazed rib pieces coated in a glossy sweet-and-savoury glaze. Smoked lamb breast, slow-cooked until tender, delivers deep smoky flavours and a peppercorn crust adds another layer of complexity. Our side of smashed potatoes was an unexpected triumph – crispy, golden and expertly seasoned. The piece de resistance is smoked pastrami short rib which practically surrenders at the sight of a fork or if you prefer something more refined, go for smoked duck breast with broccoli dressed with soy and chilli. Simple food, done well. Alex Davis
Sweet treat
There’s still time to catch the children’s Winnie the Pooh-inspired afternoon tea at Fortnum & Mason, which is celebrating 100 years of everyone’s favourite bear. The cake plate includes a vanilla and raspberry lolly inspired by Piglet, a chocolate and orange striped loaf cake inspired by Tigger and a honey and apricot mousse inspired by Winnie the Pooh and his love of honey – making it a perfect re-Rosh Hashanah treat. Finger sandwiches are simple and classic, from chicken mayonnaise and egg mayonnaise to cucumber with cream cheese, while plain and fruit scones are served with clotted cream and strawberry preserve. A showstopping coconut cake with passionfruit ganache is circulated on the silver roaming cake trolleys for an extra slice of decadence.
Italian style
While the days are still warm the terrace at Cent Anni in St John’s Wood is the ideal place to enjoy contemporary Italian food with a menu comprising pasta, fish, grills and a great range of desserts. When it gets too chilly the interior is warm and welcoming with an open fire. There is also a set lunch menu at just £20 for two courses and two private rooms on the first floor ideal for larger gatherings.
ON THE SIDE
Thursdays are thumping at Mazal (kosher) in Camden where, alongside surely the best shawarma meze in town and that famous blooming onion, Pini Brown is hosting Leil Shishi, an weekly evening of “delicious food, drinks, awesome music and amazing people”.
Jake Finn and the team behind Cinder have opened No. Forty Nine, a bakery, bistro and wine bar in St John’s Wood. They are baking breads and pastries on-site and dishing out salads, steaks and sharing plates with an interesting wine list. Weekend brunch is a thing here – all in all a great addition to the high street.
Tavlin, London’s first kosher supper club, has an innovative lineup of foodie experiences scheduled for the new season, including an intimate fine dining experience and an afternoon tea. Details at tavlin.co.uk.