Tony Page turns the tables even during Passover

Aside from the neat stack of matzah perched on every table, Tony Page’s latest offering feels like any relaxed bank holiday meal. And that’s exactly the vibe the acclaimed kosher restaurateur is targeting following the gentle chaos of family Seder nights.

“What we’re offering here at Tony Page Marylebone for Pesach is completely unique in the UK – it’s unlike any other kosher restaurant,” he explains. “The quality of the food we are serving is the same as our normal restaurant, albeit with a smaller menu.”

For the very first time, Page has hosted both First Night Seder and meals during Passover in his flagship Marylebone restaurant. All sittings have sold out – including Seder night at £290 a head for adults and £140 for children under 12. We’ve come to sample his Pesach menu on a busy bank holiday Sunday.

For those looking for a light start to their meal, the simple smoked salmon served with a side of rocket and shallots hit all the right notes. The generous helping of crunchy home-made pickles even made us forget the absence of a bagel accompaniment.

Seder night might have been over, but chicken soup with all the Passover-friendly extras looked irresistible: kosher for Pesach lokshen noodles, matzah balls, crunchy cubed carrots and generous chicken portions throughout were a treat.

We were also delighted to see a traditional Passover dish on the menu: Matzo Brei. For a hefty £24, a generous portion arrived and, if not quite as soft as I’d hoped, it remained an enjoyable and nostalgic take on a much-loved classic.

Page was on much firmer ground with the chicken thighs served in a vibrant chimichurri sauce – the dish felt light and fresh which matched the warm spring sunshine radiating through the big glass windows of the Marylebone restaurant.

With Page’s sterling reputation, it’s no surprise the restaurant was packed. His Passover Chol HaMoed offering is sold out – 600 covers will be served across lunch and dinner across just two days, before the restaurant closes until the end of the festival.

Next was Page’s raison d’être: the rib-eye minute steak. Served with a simple rocket salad and steak sauce, the meat was perfectly tender and paired superbly with a range of sides including glazed rainbow carrots, heirloom tomato salad and chargrilled courgettes. This was comfortably the best dish of the day and well worth the £58 price tag.

For those with a preference for fish, the Salmon en Papillote served on a bed of new potatoes infused with fresh rosemary and thyme was also succulent and hit all the right notes.

Dessert was a chocolate and nut torte with orange segments. A classic Pesach choice, it was moist and light, rounding off an excellent meal.

On the basis of this Passover offering, I have little doubt he’ll be sold out again next year.

tonypagemarylebone.com