Eat, drink and sleep with views of the Old City
Golden stone, amazing food and an unrivalled position make two Jerusalem hotels the ideal choice
There has always been something incredibly special about descending the steps towards the Western Wall, the view of golden-hued Jerusalem stone illuminated by the setting sun and the mood amplified by the melodies of worshippers transitioning from Mincha to Ma’ariv.
A stone’s throw from the sanctuary of the Kotel lies the haven that is the David Citadel hotel, where not only is every balcony set around a U-shape, providing charming views of the Old City, but the pool and open-air terrace boast the same beautiful spectacle. It’s a beautiful thing to be set back from the Old City but still be able to feel its ambience and energy. Come Succot, guests have the option to have a private succah erected on their balcony. I cannot think of a more special setting, directly facing the Kotel.
The 385-room hotel not only adheres to the municipal law to use Jerusalem Stone on the exterior, but carries the stone through the interior too, which complements the biblical imagery, mosaics and gold and silver motifs of the Old City that populate it. This carries through to the spacious, comfortable bedrooms with brilliantly well-equipped marble bathrooms with luxury toiletries (usually Bulgari but supply issues meant we had to make do with Dityque – somehow we coped!).
By morning, the terrace invites guests to enjoy a lazy breakfast under a shady awning and huge fans – which we were incredibly grateful for in the August heat. The breakfast comprises a copious selection of sweet and savoury treats to start the day, a fresh egg stand and a barista stand providing the perfect caffeine fix (in my case, decaf fix!) elevated by the most beautiful coffee art by our fabulous waiter Samer – who went so far as to draw a portrait of me on the foam of my cappuccino!
By night, the same terrace transforms into Veranda: the newly-opened kosher in-house meat-concept restaurant. Executive chef Kfir Mysnikov has curated dishes so innovative and appetising that it was hard to whittle down our preferences. Cue the delightful, informative restaurant staff to take you through the quality cuts along with the fish and vegetarian options. Their guidance led us to ease ourselves in with the Pogacha – a pillowy olive focaccia accompanied by an array of sauces, our favourite being the eggplant tahini – and the refreshing and perfectly light red tuna tartare, served in lettuce cups on a platter of crushed ice. Then came the Croissant Asado, which, despite our best efforts to savour, we quite simply devoured. The smoked asado beef served in a salty croissant with a smoked pepper aioli, pickled onion, curled lettuce, chimichurri and crispy leek was quite simply sensational. The staff thought I was joking when I declared that I wanted to repeat it for main and dessert.
However, if there is one dish I implore you to save space for it is the Seoul Smoked Lamb, which feeds at least four people. The 1kg lamb shoulder is soaked in a citrus brine for 48 hours before smoking in apple-tree charcoal for another 12 hours and then brought to your table complete with steamed buns, spicy lemon aioli, sauerkraut and a host of other accompaniments. The wine list features only Israeli wines, our choice being the Yatir Winery Mt Amasa red. Chocolate and caramel mousse was the perfect way to conclude such an outstanding meal.
The poolside restaurant – Grill Bar – offers the perfect balance of light snacks and more hearty lunches and the Lobby Lounge is the main dairy restaurant of the hotel. Seasons offers an indoor destination for breakfast as well as weekly Shabbat dinners and Saturday lunches.
The David Citadel is located in the heart of the Mamilla neighbourhood. Alrov Mamilla Avenue, lined with boutiques, is a convenient link between the hotel and the Old City. It was at the end of a half-hour evening stroll along here (that would have taken about ten minutes had I not felt the need to assure myself that Zara and Mango in Israel were the exact same as in the UK), that we ended up at Mamilla hotel.
This describes its location as ‘literally at the crossroads of the city’s celebrated past and future’ and I couldn’t have put it better myself. The hotel decor echoes this, blending the historic (Jerusalem Stone encompassing the lobby and rooms) and the modern (contemporary furniture and vibrant pops of colour). With four restaurants (in addition to bars and a lounge), we weren’t short on choice for a refreshment but as if we hadn’t seen enough views of the Old City already, we decided a rooftop panorama wouldn’t hurt.
Once seated at a table sandwiched between a stylish well-stocked bar and an enchanting twilight landscape, we did what you’d expect of any millennial couple in our situation: ordered cocktails and took selfies against the backdrop. Aptly named Rooftop offers a varied menu for lunch and dinner, and had our trip to Jerusalem been any longer, it would have been top of my list for a meal.
The Mirror Bar with its cigar lounge is undergoing a refurb but The Winery is open every evening, with a sommelier to help guests choose between the large number of local wines on offer. Happy Fish Mediterranean restaurant is the hotel’s dairy dining option; on a veranda overlooking the mall it is home to the hotel’s succah every year.
Both hotels are great for families and The David Citadel is home to ‘Funland’, which is an amazing children’s play centre. Mamilla guests can use this too, along with the outdoor pool (which is heated even in the winter) with a children’s pool alongside it. Nonetheless, the Mamilla’s indoor pool is the perfect spot for adults and children alike, and the sun deck invites guests to relax on a sun lounger overlooking the enchanting stage of the Jaffa Gate and the Old City.
With both hotels complete with wellness centres offering spa treatments and gyms, Jerusalem offers an idyllic getaway whatever the season.
Rooms at David Citadel start at £530 B&B
Rooms at Mamilla Hotel start at £420 B&B
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