Exploring a wildlife paradise
Sharon Feinstein discovers an animal Conservation sanctuary in south africa
Snaking below us, the elephants cut their trail through the bush, great swaying grey bulks moving across the border between South Africa and Mozambique – they who know no borders and have walked the earth for 55 million years.
We are standing at the ‘poort’ – a hilltop – watching them: me, Ben Ackerman (an environmental guide from Singita Lebombo lodge in Kruger) and scout Christof. The silence is absolute, but for a momentary bird call, the crackle of dry undergrowth and sudden shrieking of monkey alarm calls as they dart up the trees at the approach of a leopard.
I rub my hand on the distinctive yellow trunk of the sprawling fever tree and paint my face with the yellow powder for good luck. Certainly, it is luck that has brought me to Singita Lebombo Lodge, an extraordinary haven of healing and inspiration overlooking the N’Wanetsi River.
It has no pretentions. The decor, contours and colours carefully reflect the surrounding landscape, the curves of the walls, interior boulders and soothing furniture create an abiding sense of being at one with the bush and its animals. The suites are built into rocky outcrops, facing outward, splashed with light and a lot of space. You can sleep on your balcony under a net if you choose, and watch the passage of stars and moon. The food is superb: fresh, imaginative, luxurious, and abundant.
Singita’s ethos, its driving force, is the protection and preservation of the environment and wild animals.
Luke Bailes, executive chairman, founded the Singita lodges ‘to protect the beautiful wildlife Africa has’ and has never lost sight of his goal. Singita, and its conservation partners, protect more than one million acres in Africa. It has a strong anti-poaching protection unit and prioritises local communities for its staff and education programmes.
It’s a hugely inspiring place to stay, with a warmth and optimism in the air, including among the staff, the guides and even the flourishing animals. Guests never want to leave.
The air is fragrant with the scent of eucalyptus and wild sage. Towering euphorbias and extraordinary primeval succulents are a unique feature of this area. Singita lodges have no fences, so the animals roam freely around the property. The incredible closeness of these majestic creatures stirs our deepest emotions. There’s a surge of adrenalin as the Land Rover parks just a yard or two away from a pride of 13 lions flicking their tails and blinking into the sunshine under a Baobab tree; then a female leopard tearing apart a two-week-old impala on a branch above my head as I watch horrified and mesmerised from below; a pack of wild dogs – muzzles covered in blood from an earlier wildebeest kill; a cheetah standing all alone, silhouetted against a blood red and orange African sunset.
In this shocking new time of uncertainty – virus and impending climate chang – those willing to break out are itching to travel far away, to places that make a deep impression and a difference to one’s life after nigh on two years of deprivation.
This time, the experience touches us in new ways. Immersed in the raw world of wild animals where each day is a fight for survival, it hits you how these creatures have always lived as precariously as we now do.
The only thing any of us can be sure of in this uncertain world is that our choices matter, and choosing some of the last remaining extraordinary places left on the earth where conservation and community projects are sacrosanct counts towards all our futures.
There were many incredible moments at Singita. The tracker waving at an enormous cheeky female elephant and telling her to back off, as she trumpeted and approached us. Still moments where we sat in silence watching a mother and her baby rhino marking out territory. Moments that take you inside yourself, where the small problems evaporate, and you are left with only what is in front of you. And nothing is more important than living that moment to the fullest.
Holiday in luxury in Cape Town
The President Hotel, an iconic 359-room internationally-acclaimed hotel in upmarket Bantry Bay in Cape Town is also a much-loved ‘home away from home’. It is within walking distance of five synagogues and is surrounded by Cape Town’s top attractions, including the V&A Waterfront with designer shops, aquarium and restaurants, Camps Bay beach, the Cape Winelands, Jewish Museum and more.
The President has implemented the strictest health and safety protocols. Facilities range from an infinity pool and fitness centre to a wellness centre and spa. Dining options include five cafes, bars and restaurants with seasonal menus. From casual poolside dining at The Deck Bar and Terrace to smarter occasions at The Islands Restaurant and Senate Bar, there is something to suit every guest.
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