Teen-tested Florence
In an attempt to impart some culture to my teenagers, I took them on took a family holiday to Florence
Many people questioned our wisdom in visiting Florence in the heat of August but my only concern was my kids’ limited capacity for sightseeing. Planning was key!
And so we queued for the Uffizi Galleries while taking in the wonderful view of the Ponte Vecchio (‘old bridge’) – two birds with one stone. Ancient sculptures and paintings from the Middle Ages to the modern period are housed within the Giorgio Vasari-designed building, including those by Botticelli, Correggio, Leonardo, Raffaello, Michelangelo and Caravaggio, as well as works by European painters. The rooms of the Royal Apartments that were home to the Medici, Lorraine and Savoy ruling dynasties have reopened after five years.
Even on a whistlestop tour of Florence one must go see Michelangelo’s David – the original in the Accademia Gallery of Florence and the second version in Piazza della Signoria (Duomo Square).
We succeeded in getting the kids off their phones with a trip to the belltower of the Duomo, Florence’s magnificent domed cathedral (also known as Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore). It has 414 steps and stunning views over the city’s skyscape; the ensuing thunderstorm added a sense of drama to the spectacular scene. Construction on the cathedral – said to be the third-largest church in the world – was started in 1296 and took more than 140 years to finish. It is exquisite and seeing it lit up at night is magical.
Jews have lived in Florence and surrounding areas since the 14th century and there are still 1,000 there today. They were encouraged to come to the city after 1437 by Cosimo il Vecchio de’Medici but were enclosed in a ghetto in 1570. The truly stunning white and pink Great Synagogue was completed in 1882 and features Moresque arches, Venetian-style mosaics and other touches by leading craftsmen from Florence. It also contains the Jewish Museum of Florence.
If you keep kosher, you are well catered for; we ate at Ba’Ghetto, which serves delicious Jewish-Roman and Middle Eastern food, and is located in front of the synagogue, in the lively Sant’Ambrogio district featuring iconic narrow streets and antique shops. A must-try are the fried artichokes.
We stayed in the charming Hotel Fiesole FH55, a renovated historic house far from the madding crowd and only five miles (a 20-minute ride on the number 7 bus) from Florence city centre. We were smitten from our first sight of its stunning vantage point in the Tuscan hills with breathtaking panoramic views over Florence and the surrounding countryside.
The four-star hotel only has 32 guest rooms and feels romantic, intimate and cosy; it is the perfect antidote to la frenesia of the city and is a 15-minute walk away from the gorgeous and historic small town of Fiesole. The hotel’s main building was originally a lemon grove used by the monks of the nearby monastery and some of the rooms have views over the city. Our deluxe suite was decorated in the classic style – with terracotta floor tiles, a plush velvet sofa and gorgeous Phytomer and Clarins toiletries; our teens were in the interconnecting junior suite. Both rooms were supremely comfortable and spacious and had small private terraces; there is also a small outdoor pool.
The Serrae Villa Fiesole Restaurant showcases Tuscany’s authentic flavours and has recently been awarded a Michelin star. We enjoyed fabulous breakfasts here on the terrace and later on our trip we visited Rome and ate Le Spighe Restaurant at sister FH55 hotel the Grand Palatino, which is a few steps from the Colosseum. We can still taste the delicate seabass carpaccio with nectarine, dill and fennel, beautifully presented aubergine parmigiania in a style none of us had never seen before, and perfectly-cooked salmon with a crispy coating.
This was a memorable visit to an historic gem in the heart of Italy. We are already planning a return visit – in spring!
Hotel Fiesole FH55 from 219 euros a night fhhotelgroup.it
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