Ever heard the one about the cool, calm Israeli chef? No, me neither, until now!
New kosher restaurant in north London launches family-friendly sharing Sunday lunch
“Welcome!” Chef Ory Abraham throws open his arms and greets us with a warm smile. We’ve come to the newest offering in kosher fine dining: Moss & Maple, a stone’s throw from South Hampstead station.
The décor is cosy and autumnal – thoughtfully designed to make patrons feel at home, part of the family.
“The menu is all about sharing,” Ory explains. “After working hard all week, our vibe is about family connections, sitting together for Sunday lunch. This is a wonderful part of the Jewish experience.”
We take our seats, excited for Ory’s innovative French-Mediterranean cuisine executed with artistic flair. The Israeli chef describes his new Sunday family lunch offering as “good value for money”- each dish is categorised by the number of guests it serves and, quite uniquely, includes the price per person.
At the lower end, the salmon carpaccio starter serves four – priced at just £6 per person. Taking on the £100 butterflied whole chicken main course between two/three people sets you back £33-£50 pp.
Ory explains: “I want my restaurant to be accessible for everyone in the community. We are trying to ensure value for money with our à la carte menu offered on Mondays and Wednesdays, our seasonal tasting menu experience on Tuesdays, Thursdays and Sundays plus this new Sunday lunch offering.”
As advertised, most portions are indeed generous. Skip breakfast and you can enjoy a lively debate on how many hungry guests each dish really serves.
What’s certainly not under dispute is the quality of the food, which begins with sourcing the freshest ingredients.
“Twice a week at 4am I head to Billingsgate Market and personally select the best fresh fish. We also source the best cuts of meat – everything is about getting the details right,” says Ory.
With his years of experience in Michelin-starred kitchens – including Dinner by Heston and Gordon Ramsay’s Savoy Grill – Ory’s attention to detail is notable. Even the plates are specially designed in Portugal as part of his creative mindset.
We enjoy an array of starters, all presented as if designed by an artist on his personal canvas. The Tuscan beef tataki served with fermented grape salsa, tarragon and caramelised plum sauce is innovative, fresh and light. Equally delicious is the salmon carpaccio, whose vibrant colours dazzle alongside a very generous serving of black truffle.
Our favourite starter was the beef tartare with tarragon oil, cured egg yolk and a side of home-made, perfectly crispy potato with a sweet marinade.
The first main we tried was a butterflied whole chicken, served alongside a savoury chocolate sauce, seasonal truffle and a unique coleslaw with hazelnut crunch. The dish was truly exceptional – the meat perfectly tender with a crunchy skin. Served on an entire tray, it would easily feed the whole family.
Ory next presented the 48-day aged Tomahawk steak, cured in goose fat and lemongrass, served alongside bone marrow, with a miso sauce and baby potatoes. At £150 a pop, our expectations were very high – the aromatic flavour was rich and hearty, though the suggested serving size of four people felt a stretch.
Dessert was a (thankfully light!) chocolate, orange and hazelnut mousse, which perfectly completed an exceptional Sunday lunch.
Ory’s tagline is “Book your chair, not your table.” Keep mine warm, we’ll be back in no time.
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