Life magazine: Meet the three chefs shaking up the kitchen
Jewish News looks at the vibrant and colourful food of Josh Katz, Jess Moses and Sam Stern!
Alex Galbinski is a Jewish News journalist
Josh Katz – Hot and Spicy
If you’re a foodie, you’ll have heard of Josh Katz. Now the owner of Berber & Q in east London with business partner Mattia Bianchi, Josh earned his stripes in a variety of restaurants, including as a sous chef at Ottolenghi, which he credits with helping to “shape and define how and what I like to cook”. After two years there, he and Mattia launched Made in Camden, which was awarded a Bib Gourmand in the Michelin Guide.
But we possibly know Josh best as the former executive head chef (along with Eran Tibi) and co-creator of JW3’s Zest restaurant, bar, café and brand. The centre’s Raymond Simonson describes him as “a hugely created, talented chef” who “deserves to be recognised as one of the UK’s best young chefs”.
Growing up in Hampstead Garden Suburb, Josh developed his love of food from his South African Jewish parents, but says in his recently released Berber & Q cookbook that they probably hoped for him to become a banker, or possibly a doctor – or maybe even both. The banking world’s loss is surely our gain.
Smoked Chicken Thighs With Saffron and Orange Blossom Caramel and Basil
Ingredients
Saffron Orange Caramel
- 180ml freshly squeezed orange juice, strained
- 200g caster sugar
- 100ml saffron water (a generous pinch of saffron soaked in 100ml boiling water and left
to infuse for 15 minutes) - 1 tbsp orange blossom flower water
Chicken Thighs
- 8 chicken thighs, on the bone
- 75g Everyday Chicken Rub
Garnish
- Picked basil leaves, ripped
- Generous pinch Aleppo chilli flakes, or use 1 tsp dried chilli flakes
FOR THE SAFFRON ORANGE CARAMEL
Combine the orange juice, sugar and saffron water in a heavy-based saucepan and cook over medium-high heat until a caramel has formed with the consistency of a loose honey. Remove from the heat and stir in the orange blossom flower water.
FOR THE CHICKEN THIGHS
Toss the thighs in the rub, making sure each is well coated.
Set a barbecue up for smoking using two-zone indirect grilling, with an internal temperature of between 130°C and 150°C. Arrange the thighs in a single layer on the grill rack with no burning coals underneath, set up for reverse-searing. Add some woodchips to the burning coals, put the lid on the barbecue and smoke for 40-45 minutes, or until the internal temperature reaches 70°C and 75°C (or above). In the absence of a probe, cut into the meat to the bone and check the juices run clear.
Remove the lid from the barbecue and use tongs to transfer the thighs for reverse-searing so that they are directly grilling over the hot coals. Start to baste the chicken thighs in the caramel, turning regularly and continuing to baste on each side. Pour the last quarter of the caramel into a heavy-based cast-iron pan and place on the grill next to the thighs, allowing the caramel to bubble and thicken. Nicely char the outside of the thighs to ensure they are well coloured and the skins have crisped up, then transfer to the cast-iron pan. Cook for a final 1–2 minutes in the reducing caramel, spooning the sauce over the thighs as you go.
TO GARNISH – Take the pan off the grill, throw some ripped basil over to wilt in the residual heat, and garnish with chilli flakes. Serve immediately.
- Extracted from Berber & Q by Josh Katz (Ebury Press, £25).
- Photography by James Murphy.
www.berberandq.com, www.shawarmabar.co.uk
Jess Moses – So Sweet
Being without her mum’s cooking while studying sociology at Nottingham University led Jess Moses to develop an interest in nutrition and to start her Instagram account, @FreshlySnapped, through which she shared her recipes and health journey with others.
After graduating, Jess, now 26, interned at companies within the nutrition industry, before landing a job with Deliciously Ella for two years. “Not only did I learn so much from Ella about food, nutrition and health, but also about business, marketing and branding,” explains Jess, who grew up in Stanmore and attended Immanuel College. It was the perfect foundation from which to launch her own award-winning business, NanaBowls, with her friend, Phil Anthony, 33.
They made it their mission to create bowls that not only tasted great but also ticked all the nutritional boxes and were free of dairy, gluten and refined sugar. “Each bowl ranges from 15g to 25g plant-based protein and is served as a thick consistency just like a creamy ice-cream,” says Jess.
NanaBowls was launched on the island of Phuket, Thailand, and, one year on, they have plans to expand: Phil will launch NanaBowls in Dubai in the new year.
Berry Bliss NanaBowl
To get that thick ice cream-like consistency, keep things extra frozen; freeze your peeled bananas for at least three days and you can also try pouring coconut milk into an ice cube tray and freezing overnight.
Ingredients
- 2 frozen bananas
- 1 cup frozen mixed berries
- 1 scoop plant-based protein powder
- (brown rice, pea or hemp protein)
- 1 teaspoon rosewater
- 4 frozen coconut milk cubes
- Splash of cold water
Method
Add all ingredients into a high powered blender. Pour the water in slowly as you blend depending on the thickness you prefer. Blend until a thick, smooth and creamy consistency forms. Pour into a bowl and top with your favourite toppings – I love using crushed almonds, runny peanut butter, bee pollen, crunchy cacao nibs and maybe even a few rose buds if you’re feeling fancy!
Sam Stern – Fast and Tasty
Sam Stern was just knee-high to a grasshopper when he cooked his first meal, so it’s not surprising that aged just 28, he’s already published seven cookbooks. His first, Cooking Up A Storm, which he produced with his mum when he was 14, has been translated into 14 languages and is an international bestseller.
The Yorkshireman – who now lives in south London – says he loves to create delicious tasting food with a simple approach. “Using simple methods and just a handful of ingredients, you can create beautiful food that makes you smile,” he tells me.
Sam’s paternal grandfather is Jewish and he has inherited a love of Jewish food. “I recently made 12 loaves of challah for a charity event I was cooking for,” reveals the politics, sociology and business graduate. “The smell and taste of that bread is something else.”
But he is a fan of all types of food and likes to sample many flavours. Indeed, his books cater to varied audiences, including students, vegetarians and cooks with little time.
As you’d expect, Sam – who has been featured frequently in the media – has ideas for another cookbook, and would love to do “something fun and inspiring on TV”.
Chicken ramen
Feeds 4
Ingredients
- 850ml/1½ pints chicken stock
- 6 cloves garlic, sliced
- 10cm/4in ginger, sliced
- 2 chicken fillets
- 350g/12oz egg noodles
- 110g/4oz bean sprouts
- 4-6 spring onions, finely chopped
- Bit of pak choi/Chinese leaf, shredded
- 1-2 red chillies, deseeded and finely sliced
- ½ red onion, thinly sliced
- Fresh coriander
- Chunks of lime
Sauce
- 1 tsp caster sugar
- 1 tbsp Chinese cooking wine/malt or white wine vinegar
- 1½ tbsps sweet chilli sauce
- 2½ tbsps soy sauce
Method
Heat stock in a pan with garlic and ginger for 20-30 minutes over
a low heat to get it well-flavoured.
Meanwhile, flatten chicken. Thump with a rolling pin or flat of your hand. Slap it on a lightly oiled griddle or pan to cook 4 to 5 minutes
per side or till white all through. Set aside.
Mix ingredients for sauce in a small bowl. Set aside.
Cook noodles in boiling water for 4 minutes. Drain. Set aside.
Finish soup. Add beansprouts and green leaf to flavoured stock.
Simmer 1 minute. Sit noodles in bowls. Pour soup in. Tip with onions,
chilli, coriander, lime, sliced chicken. Drizzle your sauce in. Paradise.
YOU CAN: Make veggie ramen: use veggie stock, top with pan fried tofu
- Adapted from Sam Stern’s Student Cookbook, published by Walker Books, £12.99. www.samstern.co.uk
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