FOOD & DRINK

Rosh Hashanah invites reflection and the raising of a glass

Ten Israeli wines to enjoy over the chagim

As we mumble our way through borei pri hagafen and sip from something red, white, rose or questionably orange, it’s worth pausing – not just for contemplation, but for a sober (well, not too sober) look at the state of Israeli wine.

Let’s start with the good news. There are now some 500 wineries in Israel – around 80 of them commercial, producing over 50,000 bottles a year. The rest? Passionate, often family-run boutique ventures, full of heart, ambition and probably someone’s retirement fund. Annual production clocks in at 40–45 million bottles, and Israeli wines continue to punch above their weight, bringing home medals from Decanter, TerraVino, and the International Wine Challenge.

However, since October 2023, hospitality has taken a hit, tourism is down, and gala dinners have been replaced by “strategic briefings.” Unsurprisingly, fewer corks have been popped, and wine sales have sagged accordingly

Elsewhere, dozens of Israeli wines have quietly vanished from restaurant wine lists across Europe and the US. Not due to taste – perish the thought – but due to origin. What once flowed freely as a cultural bridge now trickles through geopolitical filters. It’s not easy being a bottle with a backstory.

Want to bottle wine in Israel today? Brace yourself. Corks are pricier, labels arrive late (if at all), and barrels cost nearly as much as the Merlot they’re meant to age. Add a scorching summer and a parched winter, especially in the Galilee and Judean Hills, and you’ve got a recipe for frustration — ideally served chilled.

In spite of it all, Israeli winemakers persist — tenacious as the vines they tend on the rocky hillsides of Carmel or the Upper Galilee. Out of the hardship comes resilience, ingenuity, and a kind of stubborn poetry.

Here in the UK, the initial enthusiasm for kosher and Israeli wines – especially in the wake of “supporting local from afar” – has tapered. Some importers face hurdles. Some shelves look emptier. But this, dear reader, is where you come in.

This Rosh Hashanah, as you deliberate over whether to serve brisket or sea bass, take a moment to choose your wine with intention. Whether it’s a sun-soaked Carignan from the Negev, a Judean Hills Chardonnay with the quiet elegance of a dinner guest who brings dessert, or a bold Upper Galilee blend that dares you to decant — buy Israeli. Buy kosher. Buy meaning.

And if you don’t manage to drink it all this year (or even next), fret not. Good red wine, like the Jewish people, improves with age.

So here’s to the growers, the dreamers, the barrel-wranglers and cork-counters. Here’s to craftsmanship, continuity – and a glass that is, against the odds, still half full.

Ten wines from Kedem to enjoy over Rosh Hashanah and throughout the autumn

Barkan Winery, Chardonnay W 2023

Pale straw in the glass, the wine opens with breezy scents of apple, citrus and white peach, laced with a hint of vanilla and a brisk, refreshing acidity. Nicely poised, the wine finishes rounded and ever-so-slightly tropical, its fruit character lingering long after the last sip. At about £29 a bottle, it’s a dependable crowd-pleaser.

Matar Chenin Blanc

This lovely white offers a dry, full-bodied experience with complex notes of citrus blossom, jasmine, dried apricot, and honey, complemented by a rich, oily texture, prominent minerality, and spicy hints of cloves and white pepper. The desert climate contributes to long ripening, resulting in a well-structured wine with high acidity and flavours like lemon pith and hard pear. A floral‑tinged nose opens with tropical fruit notes and a hint of kiwi, all balanced by a focused minerality that keeps the richness in check.

 

Carmel Winery, Riesling, Single Vineyards, Har Avital 2022

A delightful wine from Carmel’s single‑vineyard series on Mount Avital, bursting with citrus blossom, crisp green apple and subtle white fruit nuances. Balanced acidity and volcanic minerality give it poise and energy, while a restrained touch of oak ageing adds texture without overwhelming.

Odem Mountain Winery, Alfasi 2022

Deep garnet in the glass, the Alfasi blend—Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc – is bold and full-bodied, exhibiting rich aromas of wild berries, dark chocolate and a touch of herbal spice. This vintage whispers pedigree and confidence, offering excellent depth and restraint from Israel’s highest vineyard.

Segal Winery, Petit UF 2020

The wine presents a deep red‑purple hue and is full‑bodied with rich, concentrated flavours of blackcurrant and blackberry, lifted by minty freshness. Despite its rustic edge, it is fruity, approachable and good value for money.

Carmel Winery, Merlot, Evyatar Creek, Single Vineyards 2020

A refined Merlot from Carmel’s Evyatar Creek in the Upper Galilee, fermented from vines rooted in volcanic soils on the Dalton slopes at 800 m elevation. Deep ruby in the glass, with layered aromas of black cherries, tobacco leaf, cassis and a subtle cigar-box spice. A Merlot that demands time in the cellar yet rewards immediate decanting with complexity and depth.

Tabor Winery, Artisanal, Malbec, Creation 2021

A surprisingly poised balance of acidity and softness, described online as both light and bold, smooth yet tannic. Colour and aroma are modest, but the palate delivers substance — approachable, with a reassuring dryness and subtle fruit sweetness.

Barkan Winery, Merlot, Special Reserve 2022

A refined Israeli Merlot with elegant, velvety texture, matured for 18 months in oak barrels and destined to gain further complexity with age. Rich and intense, its palate delivers plush fruit and herbal notes, with subtle smoky oak weaving through ripe berry flavours. Despite Mevushal status, it maintains finesse and balance.

Domain du Castel Winery, GV 2022

A striking example of classic elegance from the Judean Hills, offering deep inky colour and a concentrated bouquet of blackberries, spice and fine, tactile tannins. Its palate is polished and balanced, with velvety smoothness, impeccable structure and flavours that evolve generously over time.

 

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