What you don’t know about Israel…
The country needs your support more than ever and a reason to visit is to see things you’ve never seen
For many readers, Israel feels like a home we care about and long to visit, particularly at times when it can feel out of reach. The magic of landing at Ben Gurion doesn’t fade, however many times you have done it. Indeed, I felt a sense of relief returning after such a dark, difficult year.
One of the joys of the country is that there is always something to explore. After a recent visit, Jewish News with the Israeli Government Tourist Office, will, in the coming weeks, be looking at some of the new and not so obvious things to enjoy on your next visit.
The plane to Israel may land in Tel Aviv, but Jerusalem is often regarded as the entrance to Israel. It is the focus for three major world religions, home to staggering history and the base of many key Israeli institutions.
And now there is a new gateway to the city.
The Tower of David Museum originally opened back in 1989, but it has recently enjoyed a $50m (£38m) revamp. The final outcome is quite mind blowing. Huge modern touchscreens help tell the story of this significant spot over millennia.
In some exhibitions, you can look out of the window to see the city as it currently is. The combination of ancient and modern is hugely effective and perfectly sums up the contrasts that define both Jerusalem and Israel more broadly. The view of the Old City from the top of the tower is also quite breathtaking.
The Tower of David also features a lovely outdoor coffee shop, available for anyone to use. It’s a great place to relax with friends, even you don’t have time to take in all the exhibits.
Another beautiful spot in Jerusalem is the National Library. Technically it’s not new. A national library actually outdates both the State of Israel and the Zionist Congress. However, it is a brand new, thoroughly modern design and site.
Described as a “well of knowledge”, this stunning piece of architecture is situated by the Knesset and the Supreme Court. It acts as the third pillar of society – politics, law and culture – and serves as a national institution for both Israel and the Jewish people.
Visitors will have their own personal highlights, but seeing Naomi Shemer’s original score for Yerushalayim Shel Zahav really stands out, as does the poet Hannah Szene’s notebook.
In total, the library houses somewhere between 4.2 and 4.5 million books, split into five core collections – Judaica, Israel, Islam, the humanities and music. Robotic machinery delivers works to the readers that have requested it. Seeing the equipment in action is another highlight of the tour! It seems almost impossible that the right book can get to the right person, and yet that is what happens time after time.
As well as the books and archival material, there is wonderful art on display throughout the National Library. Of course, both these institutions have been affected by the war, with the staff showing incredible levels of resilience to keep them not just functioning, but welcoming. The library was meant to fling open its doors with a grand opening on 17 October 2023. This, obviously, did not happen. However, public demand meant that its spacious, bright reading rooms opened on 29 October. It has been consistently busy since then.
The library is also acting as a central repository for stories and documentation around the Hamas attacks of 7 October. It has had to put some of its most precious items into vaults, although there is no shortage of amazing material available to see.
For the Tower of David Museum, there were different factors at play. Staff had to check it was safe to open in the event of further attack. They found that the existing walls are thick enough that the exhibits can actually serve as safe rooms. Turns out the ancient warriors knew what they were doing! They are also operating an open-door policy for those who have had to be evacuated from their homes and reservists.
In their own way, both the National Library of Israel and the Tower of David Museum provide calm, analytical and enjoyable spaces in difficult times. If you enjoy museums, there is plenty on offer in Tel Aviv too. The Anu Museum tells the story of the Jewish people in a variety of ways, ably reflecting the different histories of our global community. For instance, it details the stories of Jews from Arab countries, and the way Jews were twice expelled from the UK, before being invited back by Oliver Cromwell.
Particularly enjoyable is the exhibit on Jewish comedy. It encompasses everything from famous Israeli comedy shows to current stand-up star Modi – a good laugh indeed. Like the National Library in Jerusalem, it takes seriously its responsibilities to document the 7 October atrocities and has a very powerful display on the subject.
While the Anu Museum and the other such exhibitions in Tel Aviv really are fantastic daytime activities, for many, Tel Aviv is all about the nightlife – let’s be honest! A great spot is Teder, which acts as something of a cultural hub in the city. It has long been a favourite Tel Aviv haunt of mine, with the atmosphere ramping up as the night goes on.
Behind sometimes closed, hidden doors, there are shops, beer and pizza and dancing. The Israeli Philharmonic Orchestra has even performed there. So important has Teder become to Tel Aviv that attempts by real estate owners to turn it into skyscrapers were rebuffed. The nearby Romano restaurant from top chef Eyal Shani is also not to be missed (check out the fish shawarma…)
The area around Teder has also been revamped with a new promenade. It now resembles New York City’s High Line and makes for a lovely evening walk as the day’s heat dies down. The LGBT community, Jewish or not, continue to be welcomed into the city too.
Indeed, both Jerusalem and Tel Aviv feel like they are getting their buzz back, with the local communities and domestic tourists determined once again to enjoy what these cities have to offer. Dinner one night in Jerusalem was disturbed by a crowd dancing and singing along
to Israeli hits!
Machane Yehuda in Jerusalem is always a good place to wander through as well, with the market of the day changing into a spot for food and drink at night. It and the surrounding bars were busy, with fans also enjoying beer in a local well-known football pub even
though there was no game on.
Israel is, of course more than these two great cities.
However, they undoubtedly serve as brilliant starting points for any visit. It felt great to be back in Israel, with tourists welcomed with open arms. And even if you think you
know Jerusalem and Tel Aviv, there
is always plenty more to discover, learn and enjoy.
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